DeBoers Reliant DeBoers Reliant Studio Miniature 001 80588874 Kit Parts 002 The tape measure shows the size of this incredible model. 80588877 Kit Parts 003 This is a size comparison of the DeBoers Kit and the AMT/ertl. A Huge Difference. 80588875 Kit Parts 004 These are all the remaining parts for this kit. 80588876 Upper Saucer 005 As with the DB Enterprise the first step is to mark all of the viewports with a mech-pencil and drilling out all of the holes. 85929334 Upper Saucer 006 I've begun drilling out the area for the bridge module. The markings by the sensors are notations for a possible re building of the pieces. Comparing this model with the AMT/ertl and the movie model the bases of these sensor modules should be as marked in the pic. I will try to scratch build some larger modules that will cover these old ones without much mess. This will help the 2 red decals align a lot better for a more accurate build. The upper parts of the details appear to be correct. 89915785 Upper Saucer 007 After all the hole are drilled I puch out the slug and sand down the edges. 89915784 Lower Saucer 008 This shows all of the areas that will be punched out. The lower dome and the hanger bays. 89915786 Lower Saucer 009 The same thing is done for the lower dome. I left the cross beam there so the dome will be centered when it's fitted in it's final position. 89915790 Lower Saucer 010 This shows all of the portholes and view ports that needed to be drilled out on both sides of the ship. The 3 larger holes in the middle are pre-marked for the pylons and wiring for the warp engines. 89915788 Lower Saucer 011 This shows a better view of the hanger bays. 89915789 Lower Saucer 012 Here everything is now punched out and sanded down. The ptlons for the nacells are test fitted here to make sure the wiring will fit through and that everything is aligned correctly. 89915787 Lower Saucer 013 Here is how the wiring fits through the holes. The nacels are put on to make sure they fit snug and will be bolted in place when the time comes. To the right, I thinned out the resin by all of the double hole. This will make it a lot easier to shape the wider viewports. 89915791 Torpedo Launcher 014 Here are the shells for the Photon torpedo housing. the fronts and backes on the upper and lower pieces need to be drilled out to fit the front and back torpedo tubes. 89915793 Torpedo Launcher 015 Here are all four pieces sanded down and ready for the next step. 89915795 Torpedo Launcher 016 Holes are also drilled into the torpedo tubes. The will be re shaped later. 89915794 Torpedo Launcher 017 After the holes are drilled out as close together as possible, I take a pair of pliers and just lightly break each of the holes so that the slug will come off clean as you can see on the rear of this piece. 89915792 Warp Engines 018 In order to secure the Nacell to the warp engine, I've drilled out 5 holes on each engine, then I used some brass screws form a mini hinge set to hold the pieces together. The wiring was already molded into the kit. 122987228 Warp Engines 019 This is the outside of the nacell. The fit is very good, but I had to do a lot of work to get it to that point. 122987229 Warp Engines 020 As you can see the screws are very tiny. I drilled into the Pylons on a slight angle so the screws had some meat to grab onto, otherwise they might poke out through the outside skin. Not good. 122987230 Warp Engines 021 Here are the Warp Nacell components. There are 2 spot lights (noted by White LED in the Pic) on the front of these nacells just like the Enterprise, except these are both face inwards toward the saucer and they are much smaller. The Blue LED is under the tape there and you can see the Fluorescent tube for the Warp effect. 122987225 Warp Engines 022 At the back of the engine is the strobe on the bottom of the pic and the pink boot is for the ballasts needed for the fluorescent lighting. Unfortunately there are only 6 wires running to the engines, so I'm going to have to improvise because of the amount of lighting effects that need to be added to the engines. 122987227 Warp Engine Test Fitting 023 Next I test fitted the nacels to the saucer. There will need to be some adjustments made on the angle of one of the nacells. Some filing and sanding will be done later on. 122987232 Warp Engine Test Fitting 024 Here is another view just to give you an idea what it will look like. 122987224 Warp Engine Test Fitting 025 The rear view. The engines are tape together just for the test fitting. 122987233 Warp Engine Test Fitting 026 Another view. 122987234 Warp Engine Test Fitting 027 Here you can see all of the wiring that was molded into the pylon pieces. Quite a bit, which is good considering how much lighting will be added later, 122987235 Warp Engine Test Fitting 028 I decided to put the top part of the hull on just for kicks. 122987231 Warp Engine Test Fitting 029 Here's a forward angle. You can see the wiring that will eventually be threaded up through the roll bar piece for other lighting effects. 122987236 Warp Engine Test Fitting 030 Just another view. 122987237 Warp Engine Test Fitting 031 And a back view. More updates soon! 122987238 Painting the Warp Engines 032 The Reliant's engines are epoxied together the same as the Enterprise engines. First the fronts and rears of the engines are epoxied together, then left to cure over night. Here you can see a gap in the top seams of the engines. When the clamps are removed the gaps will lessen. 124932965 Painting the Warp Engines 033 All of the lighting effects were tested one more time before the halves were joined just to make sure everything is working properly. Once they're sealed up there's no going back. 124932964 Painting the Warp Engines 034 After several weeks of sanding and putty work I can begin opaqueing the engines. The opposite side of the engine has already been sprayed. Here you can see what was missed. 128596188 Painting the Warp Engines 035 After the black paint is added, the grills along with other parts of the engine that will remain black are masked off. Then I sprayed the engines with FLAT WHITE for my base coat. 133154108 Painting the Warp Engines 036 After the base coat dries for at least a day I sprayed the first of 4 different shades of colors on the entire engine. This color is Model Master Light Grey #1732 that was thinned out with paint thinner. The next update will show how I mask these engines for the Aztec pattern. 133153888 Painting the Warp Engines 037 This shot is to show how the grill piece has blended together after the sanding process. I will next check for any additional light leaks then if passes I can mask off the parts that will stay black then spray a flat white basecoat to begin the Aztec pattern for the RELIANT engines which is slightly different than the Enterprise Aztec pattern. More to come. 128596191 Painting the Warp Engines 038 Here all sides of the nacells have been sprayed. I had to be careful to not spray the wires. 128596190 Warp Engine Masking 039 I am masking the nacells very similar to the Enterprise patterns. To make the lines on the back ends of the engines, I cut very thin strips of painter's tape and apply them one at a time. Each line is measured to keep the exact same space. I make a very light mark on the piece for where the tape will go. 135787668 Warp Engine Masking 040 Next, with a pair of tweezers I hold the tape over the marks I just made. To make the pieces of tape curve around the bottom, I carefully bend the strip of tape to the contour of the engine. Each piece of tape is carefully eyeballed to make sure the spaces are even. 135787669 Warp Engine Masking 041 This is the inside mask of the starboard engine. This is the first of 3 masks that will be done for the Aztec pattern. 135787667 Warp Engine Masking 042 Here is a better view of the support pylon details. The patterns are more verticle on Reliant than on Enterprise. 135787672 Warp Engine Masking 043 Here is the completed 1st masking of the Starboard Engine. Next I will be spraying the 2nd color which will be a dark off-white made with 2 parts MM #1732 Light gray, and 1 part MM #1768 Flat white. 135787670 Warp Engine Masking 044 Here is a close up of the outside starboard pylon masking. There are not a whole lot of great shots of the studio model, but the ones I do have reveal some of those very thin lines on the pylon. More to come. 135787671 Warp Engine Masking 045 This is the first Color. It's just Light Gray MM#1732 before the first masking. 138378667 Warp Engine Masking 046 This is what the color looks like before the 2nd masking. 138367626 Warp Engine Masking 047 Here is the 2nd masking. A little more work on this color. The next color is going to be a light blueish color called Underside Blue MM#2123. This will be lightnened with 2 parts Flat White MM#1732. There will be one more masking and then final color added which will be Off-White made with 2 parts Flat White MM#1732 and one part Light Gray MM#1768. 138367627 Warp Engine Masking 048 This is after the second color is airbrushed on. 138378666 Warp Engine Masking 049 It takes about an hour to pull off all of the masking tape. But the results are worth it. Here are what all of the different colors look like together with all of the tape removed. 138367625 Warp Engine Masking 050 Here is a look at the full Starboard side Engine. There is some touch-up work needed on both engines, but the overall result looks very nice. 138367628 Warp Engine Masking 051 Here is another pic from the exact side of the engine. 138367629 Warp Engine Masking 053 Here are some of the details from underneath the nacell. 138367631 Warp Engine Masking 052 This is some of the front detailing. The picture has been darkened to show the different colors. In normal lighting the different shades are harder to see. Again, some touch up work is needed. 138367633 Warp Engine Masking 054 This is the inside of the Port Nacell. 138367632 Warp Engine Masking 055 Here is the outside of the Starboard nacell with the detailing on the outside fin. 138367630 Warp Engine Masking 056 The port nacell and some of the underside details. 138367634 Warp Engine Masking 057 The port nacell and the upper details. 138367635 Warp Engine Masking 058 Here is the detailed painting of the nacell. The gray front, the blue-gray fronts of the pylons, the warp grills have been re-painted. 140806284 Warp Engine Masking 059 This is the outside of the starboard nacell. You can see the deep yellow painted on to the rear fin for the thrusters. 140806285 Warp Engine Masking 060 Here's a better view of the fin and the thruster. You can see the grills have been repainted. They look a lot nicer now. 140806286 Warp Engine Masking 061 Here is the front view as well. 140806287 Warp Engine Masking 062 This is the inside of the starboard nacell. The back fin has been painted a light blue-gray. More to come! 140806288 Warp Engine Masking And Decals 063 Do tone down the Aztec pattern a bit Ineed to spray a very thinned out Off white color over the whole engine. This will alloe the Aztec pattern to show through but not be so obvious. I've masked off all of the areas that I don't wan't sprayed. 142491184 Warp Engine Masking And Decals 064 The forward grills need to be painted copper, but I wanted the black to show through. This is why all of the grills were first sprayed black. Using only the sides of a brush I blotted almost all of the paint off the brush then dragged the brush over only the top-most parts of the grills. 142491185 Warp Engine Masking And Decals 065 This is the finished product. 142491190 Warp Engine Masking And Decals 066 Now all of the decals are added. This is the outside of the Starboard engine. 142491187 Warp Engine Masking And Decals 067 Here is the inside of the Starboard Engine. 142491188 Warp Engine Masking And Decals 068 The inside Decals are added. 142491186 Warp Engine Masking And Decals 069 The upper decal finally identifies the ship as Reliant. The decals are all sprayed with a very light coat of Dull-Cote. 142491189 Warp Engine Masking And Decals 070 Here is the outside of the Starboard engine and the decals. 142491191 Warp Engine Masking And Decals 071 The rear decals above the fins. 142491192 Warp Engine Masking And Decals 072 And now, finally, both engines side by side as they soon will be when mounted to the main hull. 142491193 Warp Engine Masking And Decals 073 The inside and outside decals. 142491194 Warp Engine Masking And Decals 074 And the inside and outside decals on the pylons. See you next update. 142491195 Casting New Pieces 075 Here is the set up for the new castings of parts. The ones for Reliant will be the Impuls engine, the superphaser cannon pieces and the torpedo launchers. They will be cast in clear resin to allow for lighting effects without having to drill any holes. 144754976 Super Phaser Cannons 076 Here are the re-castings of the phaser cannon tips. 144754975 Super Phaser Cannons 077 These pieces are now ready for opaqueing. I first place them on the sticky side of the painters tape so they can be easily sprayed without flying all over the place. 144754983 Strobe Domes 078 These are the flashing strobe dome covers which will be placed on the rear of the warp nacells and atop of the bridge. These are ready for opaqueing as well. 144754980 Torp Launching Tubes 079 These are th front and rear torpedo tubes. They have been re-cast in clear resin to allow for the launching effect of the torpedos without having to drill holes into the pieces. 144754977 Bridge Lighting effects. 080 For the bridge there are several lighting effects. Here I am marking off where the rear flood lights will be places. The travel pod port will also be drilled out to put in a slightly deeper docking port with lighting effects on either side of the doors. Also the top center strobe will be drilled out and replaces with one of the domes as seen in pic 78. 144754982 Bridge Lighting effects. 081 In order to allow the new doors to fit in place I have to thin out the resin a but by using this mini disc grinder to make a nice straight groove. All of the holes are then drilled out and will be replaced by their new re-cast clear resin parts. 144754981 Bridge Lighting effects. 082 Here is what all of the holes look like all drilled out. These are now ready for opaqueing and painting. More to come in 2012. 144754978 Positioning Thruster Effects 083 To get the proper lighting effect for the thrusters without having to drill holes in the hull, I've decided to cut out the triangle shaped areas, re-cast these pieces in clear resin and re insert them into the hull. Here is what I cut out of the hull on both the Reliant Model and the Enterprises Top and bottoms of the saucers. 154891481 Positioning Thruster Effects 084 I then put a piece of tape over the opening making sure the tape is tightly stretched to make sure the new piece is flush with the hull surface. The clear re-cast piece is sitting on the hull just below the tape. 154891482 Positioning Thruster Effects 085 This piece fit in the hull perfectly and is now epoxied in place. I will now opaque this entire piece except where the Thruster lighting effect will shine through. 154891483 Lower Saucer Dome For Reliant 086 This piece has a few extra details on it unlike the Enterprise which does not have the little nubs. Rather than try to file this piece to make it flush with the surface, I got it as close to a fit as possible, then I trowled on the Modeling putty all around the edges then pressed it into place. I then epoxied the piece in place from the inside of the saucer. You can see the excess putty here. This is easily removed with an exacto blade. Clean, no sanding or filing needed. 154891484 Bridge and Lounge Viewports 087 The bridge was puttied and epoxied in much like the lower dome, then checked for light leaks. The viewports for the officer's lounge are not evident on the model itself. I used a shot of the Reliant from ST:TWOK as a reference for the size of these viewports. 154891485 Saucer Aztec Pattern 088 This is what the Saucer Aztec pattern looks like on Reliant. As you can see there are two distinct patterns and they differ greatly from the Enterprise Aztec pattern. The one on the left I'll call pattern 1 and the pne on the right is of course, Pattern 2 154891486 Saucer Aztec Pattern 089 This is the Pattern 1 Masking all ready to be applied to the saucer. There are 6 sets of these so far. Then I have to start on Pattern 2 later on. 154891487 Reliant detail pieces. 090 As you can see I cut out holes for the positioning of the detail pieces. Iined the outside rims of these pieces with modeling putty, then pressed them into place. This not only helps hold the pieces in place until I can epoxy them but it also seals all of the light leaks. 156592622 Alignment rim for Reliant. 091 One of the bad things about this model is that there is no way to align the edges up without them slipping one way or another, so I'm adding these strips around the edges so it will be easier to line up the edges for the final fit. 156592728 Warp Crystal Dome And Impulse Engines 092 This is a test fitting to make sure these rim pieces are doing their job. I've also cut out holes for the Warp Crystal on the top of the ship as well as a hole for the Impulse engine piece. These larger holes make it easier to epoxy these pieces in place. 156592621 Warp Crystal Dome Masking 093 Before I put this piece into place I wanted to add the masking. The Blue painters tape was not working too well with this no matter how much I cleaned the surface so I went back to the good ol' White tape. These pieces were all individually cut for the dome. 156592729 Warp Crystal Dome And Impulse Engines 094 As you can see I sprayed the Crystal Piece Flat Black and then epoxied the piece into place. Next I have masked off the Impulse Engines and the rims of the Hanger doors. This is the view from the top. 156592732 Reliant Hanger Bay Doors. 095 These doors are now epoxied in place and all of the necessary holes have been drilled for the lighting effects. 156592623 Hanger Door Masking 096 This is what the masks look like on the sides both left and right. The entire door will be opaqued for light leaks. 156592731 Hanger Door Masking 097 Here is what the top masks look like. The sketch just above the door is a reference drawing I made righ off of ST:TWOK 156592625 Opaqueing Reliant 098 To be 100% safe I spray the entire outside of the model Flat Black to ensure the minumum amount of Light leaks. Here's how she looks in Black. This is the top of the Reliant. 156592626 Opaqueing Reliant 099 The entire surface of the ship had to be sanded down before the ship could be sprayed. 156592627 Opaqueing Reliant 100 Here's a view from the front. She is now ready for the next color. 156592730 Opaqueing Reliant 101 Here is a side view from underneath. 156592733 Saucer Opaqueing and Aztecing 102 Here the Hull takes on it's first new color and I've begun the masking process. 156992115 Aztec pattern lower Saucer 103 The Aztec pattern for Reliant's Saucer will consist of 3 shades of Gray. The first is the Neutral gray seen in this pic. Although it appears to be random, there is an actual pattern of maskings that are done for this color. 159168473 Aztec pattern lower Saucer 104 Here is a close-up of the maskings for the lower sensor dome. While the pattern is similar to the Enterprise lower dome I made some subtle adjustments in the what was to remain this color. I used the decal sheet for the PLE for references. 159168474 Aztec pattern lower Saucer 105 Aftaer the main saucer area was masked I worked on the rest of Reliants aft end and sides. 159168472 Aztec pattern lower Saucer 106 These are the hanger bay and impulse engine masks. After the tape is removed I eill lighten up these colors to make them more subtle. 159168471 Aztec pattern lower Saucer 107 This pic shows some details I'm adding to the underneath that the model was inccorrect with. There is what appears to be an intake manifold where the white pieces are seen in this pic. It is only visible in ST:TWOK after it's warp engine is blown off and the Reliant is listing to the left of the screen. 159168475 Aztec pattern lower Saucer 108 This entire piece is sprayed Light Gray before the start of the Aztec pattern for the saucer begins. As stated before, there are two alternating patterns. The first one has been applied to the hull and I've begun the second pattern which is closer to the Enterprise Aztec Pattern. 159168477 Aztec pattern lower Saucer 109 This close up pic shows the distinction between the alternating patterns. 159168478 Aztec pattern lower Saucer 110 Here the Masking for the next color is now completed. 159168479 Aztec pattern lower Saucer 111 This view shows a better view of the alternating patterns. The next color to be added will be the Off-White color which will be the final finished color of the ships hull. 159168480 Aztec pattern lower Saucer 112 There are some sublte details that can be seen on the filming miniature on this rear section of the ship. Later on it will be sprayed Intermediate Blue as well as the ring arounbd the Warp Crystal domes top and bottom and also the Hanger doors, torpedo launchers and other minor details. 159168476 Correcting Painting Mishap 113 Yes, sometimes mistakes are made. Here, when some of the blue tape was pulled off, it pulled off some of the layers of paint. But because of this Aztec pattern it can work to an advantage. First with each of these spots I squared off the pealed areas with an exacto blade. 159168483 Correcting painting Mishap 114 Next I scraped off everything within the exacto blades outlines and presto, you have an additional color added in the Aztec pattern. This problem occured because I apparently did not wash of all of the oils and dirt from the model before painting so some of the paint pealed off as I slowly pulled the tape away. 159168484 Aztec pattern lower Saucer 115 But after re-spraying a final coat of Off-White these spots disappear for the most part and appear to be part of the intended Aztec pattern. 159168487 Aztec pattern lower Saucer 116 This shot shows the final product. Next I will be adding the Hatch colors, the positioning thrusters and the Phaser turrets as well as other detailing colors. Then I can spray the entire piece with gloss cote and begin Decals. 159168488 Aztec pattern Upper Saucer 117 The same process for Aztecing starts for the upper saucer half as well, only this time I removed all of the tape first and resprayed the hull with Light Gray. 159168482 Aztec pattern Upper Saucer 118 You can see the Neutral gray has been softened up a bit here. Then I begin with the same alternating Aztec pattern. 159168481 Aztec pattern Upper Saucer 119 This side was easier to do because there are only 10 sections on the top side versus 14 on the bottom. 159168485 Aztec pattern Upper Saucer 120 This pic shows the Main Aztec pattern completed. Now I'll be on to doing all of the back end details as well as around the bridge section and the outter saucer ring. By next month's update I should have most of Reliant painted and ready for interior lighting work. See you next month! 159168486 Upper Saucer Aztec Pattern 121 After masking the basic Aztec pattern of the saucer shape I now focused on the flat back end of the model. There are a lot of faint stripes and other detailings on this portion. First I made this grid pattern using very thin stiprs of painters tape. 161042904 Upper Saucer Aztec Pattern 122 Then I cut several strips of the tape into carying lengths and sizes and at random decorated this section. 161042903 Upper Saucer Aztec Pattern 123 This is the single largest amount of detail work that I've ever done on ANY model. 161042905 Upper Saucer Aztec Pattern 124 Here's the front view again and you can see just how much masking needed to be done. 161042897 Upper Saucer Aztec Pattern 125 A view from a little higher up. 161042906 Upper Saucer Aztec Pattern 126 I sprayed the final color which is the Off White color. Then I allowed this to dry for one day and then removed all of the tape. 161042902 Upper Saucer Details 127 I now needed to add the final colors for the other parts of the hull. This includes the outter hatches that lign the outter section of the hull, the phaser turrets, the bridge dome, the warp engine dome and the the two sections over the hanger bays. 161043009 Upper Saucer Details 128 The darker colors are sprayed intermediate blue, the bridge dome is sprayed aluminum and the phaser turrets are deep yellow. These are allowed to dry for one day, then I applied 2 coats of Gloss Cote for the decals. 161043007 Upper Saucer Decals 129 First all of the numbers and letterings are cut right to the edges, then placed on the saucer individually. I used a picture of the filming miniature for reference. Then when all of the decals were set I added one more coat of Gloss. 161043016 Upper Saucer Red Stripes 130 I was a little dissapointed that there were no Red stripe decals that came with this kit, so I had to tackle this by airbrushing them on. First I cut stips of masking tape that matched width of the Red around the lettering. 161043018 Upper Saucer Red Stripes 131 I then put these strips on the hull for reference. First I made sure they were curved correctly. I also had to do this with the Red Stripes around the bridge area. 161043020 Upper Saucer Red Stripes 132 Next, with a home made compass I built specifically for this project I cut out larger strips of tape, then I butted them up against the original thin strip as you can see in this pic. 161043017 Upper Saucer Red Stripes 133 I then removed the thin strip, cut another wider strip with the compass then left a space between the two wider pieces that remained the width of the original thin strip. It's easier to do it this way because you can see if the curve is nice and smooth. 161043023 Upper Saucer Red Stripes 134 I did this same process with all of the other RED stripes, even on the aft part of the ship. 161043019 Upper Saucer Red Stripes 135 This shows the masking for the stripe around the outside of the warp core dome. 161043024 Upper Saucer Red Stripes 136 Here are the wider pieces of mask around the aft end. 161043025 Upper Saucer Red Stripes 137 Next I added all of the newspaper to block the overspray. There is actually a lot of masking work for this to be done, but it only took about 10 minutes to air brush the top and bottom parts of the Saucer. 161043026 Upper Saucer Red Stripes 138 I used Insignia Red to spray on these stripes. I put 2 very light coats of this on. When I removed all of the paper there were still signs of overspray but they are easily removed with a paper towel and some thinner. 161043028 Upper Saucer Red Stripes 139 This pic showes the entire top of the Saucer section which is now completely decaled and detailed. Just one more coat of gloss will seal in the Stripes. 161043027 Upper Saucer Red Stripes 140 As you can see here the Insignia Red is a spot on match for the stripes. They actualy turned out even better than I thought they would. 161043032 Upper Saucer Red Stripes 141 Here is the other side and you can see the stripes around the bridge area as well. 161043036 Upper Saucer Red Stripes 142 The stripes on the aft end of the ship turned out very nice as well. 161043037 Upper Saucer Red Stripes 143 Here's another view! At first I thought the intermediate blue would be way to dark, but the next pic shows that it's a very close match.... 161043038 Studio Model vs DeBoers 144 The Reliant on the left is obviously the ILM studion model and except for the blue tinge to the picture they look pretty close. What do you think? 161042896 Lower Saucer Details 145 Although you can't see many of the details of the ship in ST:TWOK I did add a few extra colors that were sugggested by the AMT kit instructions. This masked section will be painted Duck Egg Blue. It will not be overly noticeable. 161042901 Lower Saucer Details 146 This is the mask for the lower hatches, the lower saucer dome and the lower phaser turrets. 161042899 Lower Saucer Details 147 I also will be spraying this bottom section part Intermediate Blue. I've masked off some extra details for this section as well. 161042898 Lower Saucer Details 148 At the bottom middle of this pic is the masking for the positiong thrusters as well. These will be painted Deep Yellow, then the parts where the lighting will show through will be scraped of and the decals will be layed over them. 161042900 Lower Saucer Details 149 Now with all of the masking tape removed you can see how the paint job turnned out. Next I will apply 2 caots of Gloss over most of this piece to prepare for decaling. 161043008 Lower Saucer Decals 150 I had to watch the first scene with Reliant in ST:TWOK to make sure I got the placement of the lettering correct. 161043010 Lower Saucer Decals 151 This is kind of how you first see Reliant in the movie. 161043014 Lower Saucer Decals 152 Here are the Gangway Hatch decals in place. 161043012 Lower Saucer Red Stripes 153 There are less Red stripes on the lower hull but they are longer. I used the same process as I did with the upper hull. I used the thin blue strips of tape as guides to where the Red stripes will wind up. 161043021 Lower Saucer Red Stripes 154 Again I used my compass to cut larger strips to mask this off. Although I've never really have seen them I've added 2 additional stipes to each side of the rear part of the ship. 161043022 Lower Saucer Red Stripes 155 Now I block off everything with more newspaper and again spray the stripes. Insignia Red. 161043029 Lower Saucer Red Stripes 156 If you airbrush your stripes onto the hull make sure you take it off very slowly. Even though this tape has a low tack, you can still pull your other layers off if you not careful. These stripes turned out very good! 161043030 Lower Saucer Red Stripes 157 Now we can look at all of the underneath details. This will now be finished off woth another coat of Gloss and then I can start on the Roll bar and torp launcher as well as the insides to prepair for lighting and wiring. 161043033 Lower Saucer Red Stripes 158 Here are some additional views of the entire paint job. 161043034 Lower Saucer Red Stripes 159 And this is what the stripes look like in the lower rear of the model 161043035 Aft End Details 160 This is what the Back end of the ship looks like when the two pieces are put together. 161043011 Aft End Details 161 This lower angle shows the Hanger door decals as well as some of the details from underneath. 161043015 With Warp Nacells 162 Here is a Test Fitting of the Wrp Nacells. I can now begin working on the Roll Bar and torpedo launchers as well as the interior wiring and lighting. 161616448 With Warp Nacells 163 Here is another view a little bit lower down. 161616449 With Warp Nacells 164 Here's a shot from the front. 161616455 Roll Bar and Torp Launcher 165 To make wiring and cementing easier I marked off the areas where the torpedo launcher housing will go, then cut out these areas for easier access. 164288860 Roll Bar and Torp Launcher 166 Next I taped the housing pieces to the outsides of the roll bar, then epoxied them in place from the inside. It's hard to see in this pic but if you look to the ends of the roll bar you can see I also opened up the ends to allow the wires to fit through. 164288862 Roll Bar and Torp Launcher 167 Here's how they look from the outside. Just minor putty touch-ups are needed. I can now begin detailing these pieces. See you next month. 164288863 Hanger Lighting Test 168 I needed to make sure the Hanger lighting look the right way. This is a test lighting with the flash. 172655326 Hanger Lighting Test 2 169 This is how the lighting looks without the flash. It seems to mimic the filming miniature. 172655327 Hanger Lighting Test 3 170 This is just a lower angle. I'll need to add the side and top lights later on. 172655328 Interior Lighting Test 171 I'm using 2.5" Fluorescent lights which are powered by 12v ballasts. There are 10 lamps pictured here and 4 more in the Nacells. 172655329 Assembled 172 This is a good underside view of Reliant. I just need to add the viewport glass and some lighting effects then assemble the Roll Bar and Torpedo Tubes. 172655334