DeBoers Enterprise (part1) DeBoers Enterprise (part1) Pic 1 - Saucer Section The upper and lower Saucer Pieces. There will be a lot of holes to be put in these pieces for the viewports and lighting effects. Nothing is pre-drilled. 80588367 Pic 2 - Warp Engines and Engineering Here are all of the other pieces to this model. A lot fewer than the Polar lights kit. 80588366 Pic 3 - PLE vs. DBE sizes This is a scale shot to give you an idea how much larger the DeBoers is compared to the Polar Lights Kit. This PL kit was molded in blue. Why? I don't know. 80588368 Pic 4 - Saucer Section It is very helpful to have a PL kit with you as reference. Like the refit/drydock model, this one will include open hatches. There are 2 hatches that need to be added to the DeBoers. I'll do this by re-scribing the hatch lines. The hatches to be cut out are outlined with pencil. 85929032 Pic 5 - Saucer Section 2 of the hatches are now complete with one more started. 85929342 Pic 6 - Saucer Section Since many of the lines are not very visible, I needed to outline all of the port holes and hatches before doing any work on them. Some of the hatches need to be re-scribed. Here you can see the officers lounge is outlined to have the windows removed. 85929033 Pic 7 - Saucer Section There is a steel rod that is used to support the weight of the saucer by the dorsal mounting bracket. Unforthunately this rod goes right through the doorway and will need to be cut out. 87817579 Pic 8 - Saucer Section I did this by taking a small hack saw and cut the rod down the middle. Then with a pair of pliers, I bent each side back until it was out of the view from the outside of the hatch. Ididn't remove the ring because it helps keep the saucer section supported. 87817580 Pic 18 - Saucer Section Next I cut out the access area for lighting on the bridge. First I placed the bridge piece center on the top, then with a mechpen I outline the edge of where the bridge will end. I thin drill holes about 1/8" away from that guilde line. Also the pilot holes for the officers lounge are started. 87817581 Pic 19 -Saucer Section After the holes are drilled out on top the piece just snaps off as long as you drill the holes close enough together. With a stylus sanding file I smoothed out all of the drill hole edges to the 1/8" mark. With a flat file I carefully re shape the windows on the officers lounge. 87817582 Pic 20 - Saucer Section This is the bottom piece of the saucer which will house the spot lighting. All four sides need to be drilled out as well as thinned to allow the lighting effect to lay in the the bottom of this piece on all four sides. 87817577 Pic 21 - Saucer Section The same is done for the upper bridge dome. 87817584 Positioning Thrusters Lighting Effects I'm doing this will all 4 of the thrusters, tops and bottoms. I will then recast these parts in clear resin and then re-insert them into these wedges that were cut out. 147027125 Positioning Thrusters Lighting Effects Again, the same thing with the thrusters. I tried drilling the parts were the lighting effects would be and wasn't happy with the drill holes, so I decided to make castings of these parts. First I cut out the wedges where the thruster effects will go. 147027119 Pic 9 - Engineering Hull The Botany windows are outlined here. Be careful when you cut these out. They are all not the same size. 85929335 Pic 10- Engineering Hull Before drilling the port holes out I made pilot holes. This will help the drill to keep from drifting on the curved hull. 85929336 Pic11 - Engineering Hull Next, with a stylus drill, set at about 8 on the speed dial, each hole is carefully reamed out. The windows will be added much later. 85929031 Pic 12 - Engineering Hull This is how I cut out the botany deck windows. I started with 4 hole in each of the corners a little bit away from the edges so I can file out the rough spots and square off the edges. 85929340 Pic 13 - Engineering Hull With a file I slowly square out the shape of each window. This is done on both sides until they are all even. You can see this piece was molded in 2 halves. It will need to be re-puttied, re-sanded and re-scribed for some of the details. 85929341 Pic 14 - Engineering Hull The hanger bay is closed off when the model is cast, so I but the bay doors in place and outlined them with a mechanical pencil. I also outlined the landing lights on top. The 2 hulls were pre-assembled and will need reshaping. 85929338 Pic 15 - Engineering Hull This is a brass rod for wiring already installed when you get the kit. It will be removed because the wiring and armature will be mounted through the Gangway on the saucer section. 85929339 Pic 16 - Engineering Hull Here the rod has been removed, the torpedo bay has been cut out and needs some refining, also the hanger bay has been cut open. If you enlarge this pic, you can see the steel plate in the upper rear used to support the Warp engine pylons. It was not centered when this piece was assembled so unfortunately it blocks some of the viewports. This will later be drilled out. More updates in a few weeks. 85929337 Pic 17 - Engineering Hull This pic showes the need to prefit your pieces. As you can see there is an angle on these pieces of the dorsal. I had to file the side down several times until the saucer was level on the dorsal piece. Some filler will be needed to make the pieces look seamless. 87817578 Travel Pod Door Lighting Effect From the castings I made from the travel pod doors, I've cut them out and will need to sand down the depth of the tube and trim the sides to allow this piece to fit inside the Secondary Hull. I will then mask off the parts where the lighting effects will shine through. 147027116 Travel Pod Door Lighting Effect To get these pieces into place was kind of like trying to put in a contact lense. I first put some crazy glue on the edges of the piece, then when I was happy with their position I epoxied each of the pieces in place. There are 4 of these doors on each Secondary Hull. 147027115 Travel Pod Door Lighting Effect That little clear blob in the center of the pic is the Travel Pod Door piece epoxied into place. The hole on the left side of the pic is the torpedo bay door. As you can see it is not in place as of yet, 147027114 Travel Pod Door Lighting Effect To see how the lighting effect will look, I shined a light into the hull from the front end. The doors will be opaqued except where the lighting effect will be seen. 147027118 Travel Pod Door Lighting Effect This pic shows a better view of the hull. This lighting test also gives me an idea of how many initial light leaks there are going to be and how much opaqueing will need to be done. 147027124 Hanger Bay Lighting Effects I am not comfortable with just drilling the holes into the hull for the lighting effects, so my solution to making the lighting of the rear hanger lights is this. First I drilled out and shaped all ofthe holes to how I wanted them to look. I used the blue mold making clay to cover over the top holes so the clear resin won't leak out. 147027113 Casting the Rear of the Hanger The outside rear of the hanger deck has a lighting effect that is seen on either side of the hanger door. They appear as blue lines when lit. Since the cast of the Engineering hull is too thick to work on efficiently I decided to cut out the two pieces on either side and re-insert 2 clear re-cast resin pieces so the lighting effect can be accomplished. This pic shows the casting process. 148511365 Hanger Bay Lighting Effects I've also used the clay to cover over the inside part of the holes. Remeber, you don't want the clay to go into the holes, just cover them up so there's no leaks. 147027117 Hanger Bay Lighting Effects I then stand the Secondary hulls up on end. Next I mix a small amount of the resin in a small plastic cup. With the sharp end of an exacto blade dipped into the mixture, I then drip the resin into the holes until they are overfilled but not dripping all over. 147027120 Hanger Bay Lighting Effects I then remove the clay, which at this point is no easy task, and then I take a small tube sander and grind the over filled holes back down to the surface of the hole. I next use 1000 grit sand papaer to smooth out the surfaces. I'll have more pics of how this turned out in the next update. 147027122 Hanger Bay Lighting Effects This pic shows the epoxy hardened. I let it stand overnight to make sure it hardened. I don't know if you can see in this pic, but the resin is a little bump outside the holes. 147027121 Pic 181 - Engineering Hull Back to the Engineering Hull. This pic is for the Diorama Enterprise which will be mounted on an armature from the bottom of the engineering hull. Rather than open up a new hole, I just marked of the mounting hole where the existing hole is. 144750021 Pic 23 - Main Deflector This is the main Deflector housing. As you can see it was molded as a single piece. There is no room for the actual deflector piece to fit in so the center must be drilled out. You can see here where areas to be drilled out are marked. 93577081 Pic 24 - Main Deflector First I used an etching bit to guide my drill bit for the small holes that needed to be opened up around the deflector housing. This is just a rough drilling. The holes will be shaped later. The center part was punched out by drilling many holes around the area to be removed, the the pieces was sanded down to make it round and smooth. 93577083 Pic 25 - Main Deflector On the inside I had to remove a lot of the resin about a quarter inch around the ring of holes so I wouldn't have such a hard time drilling out the holes. I still need to remove some more to help shape the holes. This pieces is very thick when it's molded, 93577084 Pic 26 - Main Deflector Here the Dish of the deflector is test fitted, This piece was molded in White, which I like, but on another kit I am building it is molded in semi transparen Blue. I like this one better. 93577085 Pic 27 - Hanger Deck In order to scratch build the Hanger bay, I took the instruction sheet from a Polar Lights kit and blue it up to the exact size I need for the DB Model. This will make it much easier to reference when I build this piece. 93577080 Pic28 - Hanger Deck Here is a cut out of the main piece of the Hanger deck. I'm using .080 styrene for this part. I will make a master of this piece so I can cast this part for several models that I'm building. The bottom piece is my stencil that I use to mark of where the hanger goes on The DB kit since the hanger is molded shut and needs to be cut out. 93577082 Pic 29 - Hanger Deck This is the PLE secondary hull with the hanger bay in position. As you can see there is a lot of space between the hanger walls and the outter hull. With The DB I am going to widen the hanger to fill in the empty space and make it look more like the Motion Picture Hanger. 99594515 Pic 30 - Reference Picture In this pic you can see the width of the bay is much wider where the work-bee is positioned. It is more rectangle shaped than the PLE hanger opening. 99597586 Pic 31 - Reference Picture Here the 2 elevator columns are much further apart than the model kit as well. I will also be scratchbuilding the lower hanger that is in between the main flight deck and the cargo area. 99597587 Pic 32 - Hanger Deck To start on the hanger I first cut the ends of the hanger walls, then marked off where the ribbing will be as well as the observation deck and work-bee ports will go. 99594514 Pic 33 - Hanger Deck Next, I bent these pieces around a piece of copper piping until I was satisfied with the curve of the walls. Then I made sure they fit into the DeBoers hull. 99594516 Pic 34 - Hanger Deck The top piece is the PL hanger piece. Below are the two end pieces that I'm working on, so far. I left the viewports filled in because this will be part of my master for a resin casting of the hanger that I will be doing. 99594510 Pic 38 - Hanger Deck Here is the start of the lower cargo bay deck. The lines are guides for where the container stalls will line up in the front and back of the bay. First I built the solid parts of the side and rear walls using .080 sheet styrene. 101619711 Pic 39 - Hanger Deck Next I used a .15 sheet styrene to make the cargo stalls. This one is the rear wall. I first made a stencil of the openeing then carefully measured the spaces in between to make sure they spaced evenly then with an EXACTO knife I carefully cut out each opening. 101619713 Pic 40 - Hanger Deck This thin layer is then applied over the .080 styrene to create depth. Here is the port side wall and there are additional doors and walkways added here. 101619714 Pic 41 - Hanger Deck Here you can see that there is much more room for cargo containers and work bees to maneuver around in this area comparedd to the PLE hanger. 101619710 Pic 42 - Hanger Deck This view showes the cargo stalls as seen in slide 30. 101619712 Pic 43 - Hanger Deck Next, the upper rear walls are added. I used more .80 sheet styrene and sanded down the tops of the pieces to allow the roof to fit snug. 101619709 Pic 44 - Hanger Deck Now I've added the ribs to the walls and added the details to the upper rear wall as well. I lerf the Starboard side off so you can see everything. 101619716 Pic 45 - Hanger Deck Here is a view looking from the front . In the foreground is the lower hanger deck. I still need to add the upper part of the ribs to the right and left top part of the walls. I also have to add some details between each of the ribs. 101619717 Pic 46 - Hanger Deck Here is a view from the rear looking towards the hanger entrance. This hanger will just barely squeeze into the DeBoers Engineering hull so I have to be careful about the width. 101619715 Pic 47 - Hanger Deck Here is a top view that gives you a good Idea of how deep the cargo bay would be. More updates coming soon. 101619718 Pic 48 - Hanger Deck In order to make a precise fit of the scratch built pieces I 've had to make several test fitting to make sure the opices are going to fit into the model. 102888020 Pic 49 - Hanger Deck For now, everything is being held in place by blue tape. Each section of the hanger deck will be pieced in and fitted to as to make sure there will be no areas for the final resin molded pieces to fit inside the DeBoers Hull. 102888021 Pic 50 - Hanger Deck Here it looks almost as good as the PL hanger. This is just a roughing - it -in test. The model will be completely lit when the hanger is finished. 102888022 Pic 51 - Hanger Deck This gives you a good view of the flight deck and the inside walls. 102888023 Pic 52 - Hanger Deck This is what the fitted pieces look like so far from the inside of the hull. You can see the two side walls and the upper flight deck as well as the lower deck as seen in pic 30 and 31. The middle section walls are going to be trimmed down to fit inside the ship better. I'll have more pics in a week or so. 102888024 Pic 53 - Hanger Deck Here is a size comparison for the DB Scratchbuild Hanger and the PL version. 103742499 Pic 54 - Hanger Deck The lines on the Ceiling are markings for the rafters which will be added soon, I also have one of the Turbo lift tubes in place. Still have to add a few more details to the tubes. These tubes line up with the catwalks whereas the PL tubes are off a little bit and do not line up correctly. 103742481 Pic 55 - Hanger Deck Because of the size of the Hanger I had to open up the front end a little bit. The left DB is before I sanded out the openeing. Don't worry, the Deflector housing still has plenty of meet there to be held in place. 103742483 Pic 56 - Hanger Deck To show you how tight a fit this is I had to turn the hanger a bit and squeeze it in through the opening and wiggle it completely inside then straighten it out to fit in it's final position. Nothing is glued together at this point. 103742490 Pic 57 - Hanger Deck Now you can see the Ceiling and walls inside the hanger opening. 103742482 Pic 58 - Hanger Deck Here are the details of the Ceiling. 103742484 Pic 62 - Hanger Deck Here is my first test casting of the hanger deck walls. It actually came out very well. The chip you see there was an accident but, I'm very impressed with how it turned out. I will begin final castings next week. 106883324 Pic 63 - Hanger Deck This is the rear wall piece, The casting came out perfect. The dark color is due to the natural lighting when I took the pic. It is actually white like the other piece. I didn't color corect this shot. More to come! 106883325 Pic 64 - Hanger Deck This is how I'm doing the Landing lights for the Hanger. The piece on the left is a guide track for the Chase lighting effect. The middle is a resin cast of the Hanger Deck. The etchings are to guide the placement of the guide track. The piece on the right is the two pieces epoxied together, 108483460 Pic 65 - Hanger Deck Next the chase light strips are cut and slid into the tracks, This makes it easier to replace them and lines them up faster. While the lights are on I put a thin piece of painters tape over the lights I want to be exposed after opaqueing. The next update I'll show you what the effects looks like. 108483461 Pic 69 - Hanger Deck Now The painting can begin. There is a lot of small masking that needs to be done. There will be a lot of additional lights that will appear on these pieces. Everywhere you see the blue tape is where the lights will be seen. 112885504 Pic 7 - Hanger Deck These are the Turbo Lift tubes, They are masked odd as well. It's easiest to paint these pieces while they are stuck to a piece of tape. 112885505 Pic Hanger Deck - After everyhting has been opaqued, a base coat of Flat white is added. 112885506 Pic 72 - Hanger Deck The flight deck has been sprayed a medium gray then left to dry for at least a day. Next I am Airbrushing the yellow landing stripes on. First I mask of the deck with the painter's tape. 112885517 Pic 73 - Hanger Deck Here is the end result. The white stripes atr really transparent strips. Photo 65 shows the masks for these pieces. This will allow the chase lighting effect to show through the deck. 112885522 Pic 74 - Hanger Deck All of the walls and details are painted and then the masking tape is removed. I'll show you the lighting effect in a future update, 112885523 Pic 75 - Hanger Deck This is how you make the railings for the upper walkways in the hanger. I taped down to strips of styrene, then individually cemented the posts in place. The posts were measured off and marked on the green strip of cardboard as a guide to where the posts should be placed. 112885518 Pic 76 - Hanger Deck In this view you can see all of the railings in place before I added the lift tubes. The railings are then painted by hand. 112885526 Pic 77 - Hanger Deck All three of the wall pieces are epoxied into place, then the lift tubes are epoxied to the catwalk decks. 112885524 Pic 78 - Hanger Deck This is a test fitting of the ceiling. There is a lot of fitting problems with this piece into each of the models because all of the DeBoers models are individually made, so there are different thicknesses in the resin on the interiors of the pieces. 112885519 Hanger Deck Here are the finished Hanger decks. These are now awaiting their lighting effects and their final placement inside the secondary hull. 116799720 Shuttlecraft Lighting Effects I also want to add some lighting effects for some of the shuttles, so I'm recasting them fully assembled in clear resin. This are for front viewing only. The rear ends will be drilled into and the lightin effects will be added from there. I am also making some side-view and rear-view castings of these pieces as well. See you next update. 147027123 Pic 59 - Botany Deck This is the start of the Botany deck. For the most part, the pattern of the water and the walking paths are the same as the PLE version. I had to take several tries at a stencil to make it match the inside of the DB model. 106883320 Pic 60 - Botany Deck Here everything has been outlined in pencil. I've cut out the parts were the water will be with an exacto blade. As you can see it's been graded as if it were a small shore line. The narrower parts of the water will have two bridges on the walkways. I've also added a lot of extra cement to the grassy areas to make small hills. It will look better when the grass is added. 106883322 Pic 79 - Botany Deck Getting back to the Botony deck. I've added a rear wall "ONLY" to the bottom because like the hanger deck it just barely fits into the opening of the engineering piece. The other wall will be added to the ceiling piece and asembled after the lower piece is in place. 112885525 Pic 80 - Botany Deck Here I've added some detail to the walls. This is now my master for making a mold so the pieces can be resin cast. 112885521 Pic 81 - Botany Deck All three of these pieces are castings and I've begun to add the greenery and the pathways. This is actually pretty fun to do. Next update these pieces should be finished. 112885527 Pic 61 - Misc. Pieces These are for the ceilings that will be used for the opened hatches on the saucer sections. I'll have to make the walls as well. 106883323 Pic 66 - Officer's Lounge Here is the start of the Officers Lounge. I'm using stills from ST:TMP to accuratize this piece. The piece is much roomier than the PLE one, The walls on the left are paneled The ones on the right are transparent. The view screens are much smaller in scale than the PLE version. 108483462 Pic 67 - Officer's Lounge This shows the same piece from overhead. After I add the couches, chairs and tables, this piece will be cast 4 times as a solid piece for all 4 ships including Reliant. This is my master for casting. 108483463 Pic 68 - Officer's Lounge Here is an angled shot to show the dimension of the room(s). This one is a lot closer in detail to TMP than the PLE piece. After these are cast and painted, I will add some plants and a few people to this piece to complete it. More to come! 108483464 Pic 82 - Crew Rec - Deck Next I've started on the Crew Reck Deck. Using an existing blueprint I scaled it down to the size of the DeBoers Saucer. Using a very thin piece of styrene for the floor I use the print as a stecil. 112885507 Pic 83 - Crew Rec - Deck To begin the very complicated walls I started out with a thin sheet of styrene and drew out the thickness of the walls then cemented strips of styrene across these lines. 112885508 Pic - 84 - Crew Rec - Deck Next I used an exacto to cut these pieces into even rows. 112885509 Pic 85 - Crew Rec - Deck This is what the rows look like after they've been cut. 112885510 Pic 86 - Crew Rec - Deck Next I sandwiched 3 pieces of styrene cut to the shape of the rec deck walls together and use these as the sides of each of the strips.This pic shows the approximate position of these wall pieces. 112885511 Pic 87 - Crew Rec - Deck Next I add a backing to these pieces to keep them evenly seperated evenly. Before I added each piece, though I put in these wall spacers. This is my master for my mold. I will cast 6 of these pieces in resin. 2 for each ship, 112885512 Pic 88 - Crew Rec - Deck What is seen in ST:TMP is a little larger than what can actually fit into the hull of the ship. I needed to carefully etch out some of the inside to allow the wall pieces to fit without being on a slight angle. I also had to shave the wall pieces down a little to make it fit into the model. 112885513 Pic 89 - Crew Rec - Deck Here the wall piece is test fittied before I make a mold and the rear wall has also been added and test fitted here. This piece is also a master for a mold. I will cast 3 of these pieces from resin for each of the ships. 112885514 Pic 90 - Crew Rec - Deck The tiered walkway is the only piece I will build for each of the ships. It is way too complicated to make a mold for. It's not a difficult thing to build from scratch. 112885515 Pic 91 - Crew Rec - Deck Here's another angle. 112885516 Pic 92 - Crew Rec - Deck This is the layout of the floor with all of the furniture, tables and steps as seen in the movie. The pencil mark is where I will cut out a hole for the game. This piece will be made into a mold and 3 pieces will be cast. One for each ship. 112885520 Pic 94 - Crew Rec - Deck They actually didn't turn out to bad. 112885529 Crew Rec - Deck To detail the side walls and lift tubes for the crew rec-deck I first mask off the parts that will eventually have lighting effects in them. 116799719 Crew Rec - Deck Next I opaque all of these parts with a light coat of Flat Black. 116799721 Pic 93 - Crew Rec - Deck Here all all of the rec decks made from resin. 112885528 Crew Rec - Deck Next I airbrushed a blue-gray color which was made from 1 part Dunkelblau(MM2074) and 2 parts Flat White(MM1768) Unfortunately I didn't take a picture with this color by itself, but here all of the masked areas are where the blue-gray will remain. This pic is just after I sprayed a meduim gray(MM1725). 116799727 Crew Rec - Deck Here is one of 2 pics with the crew rec-deck partially dinished. The carpeting is a British Crimson(MM2009). This pic showes all of the walls in place for a test fitting. 116799728 Crew Rec - Deck Here is the view of the back wall. I'lll be adding the Viewer to the wall by next update. I'll also add the floor-game details and a few more pieces of furniture that didn't turn out in the casting process. You can see some of the detailing from the outside viewports but all of it. More pics to come. 116799729 Pic 95 - Officer's Lounge This is a resin casting of the officers lounge and is now ready for painting. 112885530 Pic 96 - Officer's Lounge There are 4 castings here. 3 for the Enterprises and one for Reliant. More to come! Stay tuned! 112885531 Pic 97 - Officer's Lounge On these pieces the first color is applied. In this case Neutral Gray MM1725, I usually start with the darker colors first. This would be the carpeting or flooring on these pieces and in some cases the colors of the walls. 116799722 Pic 98 - Officer's Lounge For the officers lounge, I then mask of the areas for the next color which is the off white, Which is 2 parts Light gray(MM1732) and 1 part Flat white(MM1768) 116799726 Pic 99 - Misc. Pieces This piece is the outter hatch door which can be seen in the "Deleted Scenes" version of the Directors cut of ST:TMP. I put the raised detailing on this door to add a little depth. 116799723 Pic 100 - Misc. Pieces With some of the previously casted detail pieces I made before (See slide 61) I made the ceiling piece, the two angled side-walls and the hatch wall. This slide shows the hatch doors in place. This piece will be re-cast into a single transparent piece so the lighting effects can come through. 116799725 Misc. Pieces This is the piece being test fittied. I'm just holding it in place with my finger for now but you can see how it will look when finished. 116799724 Warp Engines Now it's time to start assembling the Warp Engines. First I needed to decide what lighting I was going to use and what needed to be drilled out. Here are the outsides of the engines. I've outlined all of the fins or final stage intercoolers as well as cut holes for lighting effects/ 120420380 Pic 22 -Warp Engines Next the Warp Engines need to be opened up on the insides only. 1) the outline for where I need to drill out the openeing, 2) The holes are drilled out. 3) The pieces are then pushed out. 4) The drill holes are rough sanded smooth. 5) The warp grill is in place. It is only necessary to open the holes just a little before the first groove on both the top and bottom of the grill to allow the warp effect to be seen. 87817583 Warp Engines I decided because of the drying time of the Epoxy it would be better to cut out larger holes so that I can seal all the light leaks better. There is less mess in the joints where the pieces meet when the epoxy dries. 120420381 Warp Engines First I tape the piece to the engine with painter's tape and make sure they are lined up properly. 120420382 Warp Engines Next I put a piece of panter's tape where the lighting effect will be. The rest of this piece will be opaqued for light leaks. 120420386 Warp Engines I mixed the epoxy right on the pieces so there is less waste and you doin't have to worry about throwing out the pieces you mixed the epoxy on. I make sure all of the joints where the pieces meet are thouroughly covered so I can do a good opaquieng job later on. 120420383 Warp Engines Applying epoxy from the back of the pieces allows for less mess and clean-up. All I have to do now is some putty work and some sanding to smooth out the pieces. 120420384 Warp Engines Since the holes for the front pieces worked out so well, I decided that rather than use the brass posts that came with the kit to keep the fins straight I would use my Dremmel to cut slits at the back of the engines to allow epoxy to hold everything in place. Where the fins will go is marked in pencil to make sure they're lined up properly. 120420387 Warp Engines From the inside of the engines you can see how the fins cover the slits up. I used painter's tape to hold them in place. These were a littl more difficult to set because of the curve of the engines. After 3 - 4 minutes I made sure the fins were straigt before the resin hardened. 120420388 Warp Engines Here are the outsides of the Nacells with the fins and the front Flux vents in place. 120420389 Warp Engines Before I attach these front end Flux vents I've marked off a place where the lighting effect will be behind this shielding. Note this is only on the outside piece of the Warp Engine. 120420385 Pic 35 - Warp Nacells I will also be recasting the warp nacells to enhance their effect, but first I had to make these inside grills contour to the engine. First I put the grills on a piece of aluminum foil on a cookie sheet then heated them up for 5 minutes at 170 deg.This makes the grills very plyable. 99594512 Pic 36 - Warp Nacells As soon as I take them out of the oven I placed them on the engine and with a towel a pressed them into the contour of the nacell. This makes the grills look like tey were made to fit on the engine. 99594511 Pic 37 - Warp Nacells Here you can see the difference in the shape of the grill. The piece on the right is before I heated it up and the piece on the left has been cooled and fits perfectly onto the engine. 99594513 Warp Engines To do the Warp grills I had to cut out very straight holes and make sure the grills fit in there perfectly. I then epoxied just the parts that made contact with each other. I mixed the epoxy resin right on the inside of the engine using 3 to 4 beads to make sure there was very little waste. 120420390 Warp Engines There are brass rods that come with this kit to help align the engines. I dedcided to use brass screws instead. I also cut some slits to epoxy the pieces together on top of the screws holding the pieces together, This adds even more strength to the connection. 120420391 Warp Engines Next I finally was able to run some wiring through the brass tube in the support pylon. There will be 4 seperate lighting effects just in the nacells so there are 8 wires per nacell. 120420392 Warp Engines I will be using Micro Fuorescent lamps for the Warp Effect. They generate very little heat and provide more than adequate lighting. The pink boots you see here are covering the ballast circuits. Per the manufacturer I am using Silicon Tub Caulking to hold the ballasts in place. 120420393 Warp Engines The Ballasts are now in place and are ready for their Fluorescent lighting tubes. The manufacturer recommends using the caulk for the bakkast tubes because it bonds together with the silicon boots better and can be cut away of they need to be repaced. You cant do that with Epoxy. 120420394 Warp Engines The Fluorescent tubes are now caulked into place around the boots for the tubes. If the lights burn out you just need to cut around the caulking to remove and replace them. The life expectancy for the tubes is 1000 hrs. 120420395 Warp Engines Here is the first lighting test. As you can see, there is more than enough light with just 2 tubes. an 8" and a 4" tube are needed. I will put a reflector around these tubes later on before the 2 engine pieces are put together to enhance the lighting. 120420396 Warp Engines Here is what the lighting looks like from the outside of the engine. I'm holding the other piece on right now but you can see how much light is provided. I can also see where the most light leaks are from the outside. In the next update I will be adding some of the other lighting effects for the Warp Engines. 120420397 Warp Engines Here I Decided to ad a lip to the edge of the two engine halves. I figured this would help hold some of the epoxy in place while it sets. I tried this with one engine and then decided it was not worth the effort. It turns out to be too much work to avoid getting the epoxy all over my hands and everything else. 124931700 Warp Engines I decided to do the epoxying in three seperate stages. First because there is more surface area to put epoxy on in the front and the tail sections I would epoxy them first and clamp them together and let them set over night. I then epoxied the top of the engine by troweling the epoxy into the seams. Here I have done the bottom half and clamped them together and let them dry over night. 124931701 Warp Engines Here you can see the seams with an over abundance of epoxy. This fills in the cracks fairly well and later on I will use a minimal amount of putty to put a nice finish on the engine pieces. 124931699 Warp Engines In order blend the transparent Blue grills into the rear grills of the engines I added some putty over the seams. The putty that's in the grooves can be cut out with an exacto blade. 128595018 Warp Engines This shows the seams sanded down and even. It looks worse than it is. It feels very smooth to the touch. 128595019 Warp Engines I've already sprayed the underside of this piece flat Black. This will help with the light leaks. 128595020 Warp Engines This piece is now opaquedI will first have to check for light leaks again. If there are none, I will mask off all the parts that will stay black and then spray a flat white undercoat so I can begin the Aztecing process for the ENTERPRISE engines. More next update. 128595017 Warp Engines After Opaqueing is done I start to mas off all of the parts that will remain Black as shown by the blue tape. This was done on all of the Enterprise engines. 133151529 Warp Engines The first permanent color I'm using is Model Master Light Grey # 1732. Believe it or not this will be one of the darkest shades of 4 colors that I'm using for the Aztec patterns. The Aztecing on these models is going to be more subtle than most do. These are the Port Nacells. 133151527 Warp Engines This is the Starboard nacell. It is now ready for the very time consuming Aztec pattern. There are not a whole lot of good pictures of the pylons but I'm basing my pattern after one good shot the the BIG E in drydock where you can actually see the lightning bolt pattern fairly clear. 133151528 Warp Engines This grid pattern is for reference to place the lightning bolt-like patterns on the nacells. I've also added some fine masking strips to other parts of the engines as well. The grid lines appear crooked because of the indentation from the flush vents. 133151530 Warp Engines Although it's difficult to see in the movies, there is a definite pattern to the lightning bolts. Before the next color is sprayed on, the grid lines will be removed leaving only the lighning bolt masks. This is the outside of the Port engine. 133151526 Warp Engines Here is what the lighning bolt patterns look like on the insides of the engines. The large maskes on the flush vents and the inside nacell grid are to keep the layers of pain from building up over the detailing. By next update I'll have all the Starboard patterns masked and the next color will be added. see you then. 133151531 Pic139 - Warp Engines The 2nd color has now been added. This is a dark Off-White. I used 2 parts Light Gray MM# 1732 with one part Flat White MM#1768. 138369195 Pic 140 - Warp Engines Here is the second masking. This requires a little more work. I don't want a whole lot of the next color to show on the hull so there is more masking to be done. The next color to be added will be One part Underside Blue MM#2123 with 2 parts Flat White MM#1768. 138369196 Pic 141 - Warp Engines Here the Underside blue has a bluish green color. You will notice it more in the final paintjob. Not quite as much masking will be needed for the final color. 138369197 Pic 142 - Warp Engines I used thinner pieces of masking tape because I didn't want too much of the Underside blue to overpower the paint job. More like accenting te hull. 138369198 Pic 143 - Warp Engines This is the final color, still drying when this pic was taken. It's Off-White made with 2 Parts Flat White MM#1768 and 1 part Light Gray MM#1732. 138369199 Pic 145 - Warp Engines Here are all the different colors on the engines and support pylon. The grills and other details will be painted added in the next update as well as the Nacell Decals. 138369202 Pic 146 - Warp Engines Here is the outside of the Starboard Nacell and Engine detailing. There is some touch-up work that needs to be done, but the base colors turned out well. 138369203 Pic 147 - Warp Engines This is the inside of the Starboard Nacell. The center stripe and decals will be added by the next update. 138369204 Pic 144 - Warp Engines Here is a closer look at some of the detailing. You can still see some of the masking tape on the front side of the pylon and where the stripe will eventually be added. 138369194 Pic 148 - Warp Engines And one final close up of the inside of the Starboard Nacell details. More to come in the next update! 138369200 Pic 149 - Warp Engines Here is how I masked the outside of the engines. I'm going to airbrush 4 different colors with this mask. 140805615 Pic 150 - Warp Engines Here Is how the paint job turned out. 140805622 Pic 151 - Warp Engines Here is another angle. 140805616 Pic 152 - Warp Engine Masking This is what the mask looks like for the front of the engines and the warp grills. 140805621 Pic 153 - Warp Engines Here is the final product. 140805618 Pic 154 - Warp Engines This is how all of the added details looknow. 140805617 Pic 155- Warp Engines The mask of the positioning thrusters. 140805614 Pic 156 - Warp Engines The final result. Also the rear fin has been painted a blue-gray. 140805627 Pic 157 - Warp Engines This is the mask for the inside of the engine and nacell. 140805619 Pic 158 - Warp Engines This is the first step for the gray stripe. There will be 2 more shades of gray added later. 140805620 Pic 159 - Warp Engines Here's what the insode details look like. 140805623 Pic 160 - Warp Engines A different angle. 140805624 Pic 161 - Warp Engines From underneath. 140805625 Pic 162 - Warp Engines One more look at the additional details. 140805626 Pic 163 - Warp Engines Note the potholes in the bottom of the pylon. These are formed in the plastic when the piece was originally molded. almost all of these parts have this problem. The holes were not visible until I painted these pieces. They will be puttied and repainted later on. 140805613 Pic 164 - Warp Engines To dull the Aztec pattern just slightly I need to do a kind of White washing by spraying a very light coat of an extremely thinned out "Off-White". This will allow you to see the Aztec patterns but not over emphasize all of the colors. I masked out all of the parts I don't want to spray in this pic. 142489528 Pic 165 - Warp Engines You can see here that the Aztec is a little more translucient here and doesn't jump out at you as before. Now I'm going to do the inside stripe which will take 3 colors. The first is Neutral gray MM1725. This will be for the outline of the stripe. 142489531 Pic 166 - Warp Engines This is the same masking but with newspaper to block the overspray. 142489530 Pic 167 - Warp Engines The second color is 1 part Neutral Gray MM1725 with 1/2 part Flat White MM1768. This pic shows what the outline will look like when finished. I retaped this to add the 2nd and 3rd colors. 142489529 Pic 168 - Warp Engines The 3rd color is 1 part Dark Gray MM2036 and 1 part Duck Egg Blue MM1722. This mixture will make the color a blue gray shade. This pic shows the masking for the top section of the stripe. 142489527 Pic 169 - Warp Engines Here is another view of the mask. 142489532 Pic 170 - Warp Engines This is what the stripe looks like when all of the colors have been added. 142489539 Pic 171 - Warp Engines Next, to paint the forward warp grills I decided to do this by hand. The reason I painted the grills black first is so you can see some of the black deeper into the grills when they are finished. To do this I dipped my brush in the copper paint, then blotted most of the paint off of the brush. Using only the side of the brush I lightly touched the tops of the grills to give them this effect. 142489534 Pic 172 - Warp Engines Here is what the grills look like completed. You can still see some of the black in between. 142489533 Pic 173 - Warp Engines Finally, I've added all of the touch-ups and the decals on either side of the engines, to finally identify the ship as our beloved NCC - 1701 142489535 Pic 174 - Warp Engines The rear decals applied. Then sprayed with a light coate of Dull-Cote. 142489536 Pic 175 - Warp Engines Here's the inside of the Engines. 142489537 Pic 164 - Warp Engines A Close-up of the inside decals. 142489540 Pic 177 - Warp Engines A Different view without the Black backdrop. 142489538 Pic 178 - Warp Engines And now, for the first time... the finished port and starboard engines stand opposite of each other now waiting to be mounted to the engineering hull. 142489541 Pic 179 - Warp Engines It's like you're looking out the officer's lounge window's, Huh? See you next update. 142489542 Pic 180 - Warp Engines Okay, this is the last pic of the engines - for a while - now on to other items. 144750037 Pic 182 - Engineering Hull With a tube sander I opened up the hole so the mounting pole will fit in snug. The centerline for the 2 halves of the hull is not simmetrical to I made an "X" where the phaser turrets are so I can make a hole for the flashing strobe. 144750020 Pic 183 - Engineering Hull This is what the model will look like mounted from the bottom. I have also re-cast the main deflector housing and dish into one clear piece. This is a test fitting. 144750022 Pic 184 - Engineering Hull As with the engines, the seam lines needed a lot of puttywork and sanding to make them a little smoother. This engineering hull is for one of the drydocks. 144750029 Pic 185 - Engineering Hull To fill in the original hole I first epoxied a piece of styrene to the inside of the hull. Then I puttied the hole up let it dry over night then sanded everything smooth. It took at least 3 sandings to get it to look right. The seams are very bad on this model. 144750023 Pic 186 - Engineering Hull Next I cut out the fantail light, I used the original piece to outline where it will go which is about an inch from the end of the fantail. Then I marked an inner line to mark what needs to be drilled out. 144750025 Pic 187 - Engineering Hull First I used a drill to make the initial hole then widened it out with various files. 144750024 Pic 188 - Engineering Hull Here you can see I didn't open the hole up too much so I can have a little bit of meet for the cement to hold onto. 144750028 Pic 189 - Engineering Hull I recast the lighting cove piece in clear resin for the lighting effects. Also you can see I have the lights tha are over the top of the hanger marked of. Again because of the way these pieces are put together I will need to re-align these lights to they are even when the model is finished. All three models have the same problem. 144750041 Pic 190 - Engineering Hull Here is a close look at the lighting piece. I've also had to re-scribe a lot of the detail lines because of all the sanding that was needed. 144750040 Pic 191 - LEDs This is one of the LEDs for the lighting effect on the lower fantail of the engineering hull. I put to seperate bends into the leads so that the LED will fit down into the light housing. 144750019 Pic 192 - Engineering Hull This is showing the additionalholes that needed to be drilled into the hull both for mounting the pylons to the hull and also the wiring effects. Next I will sand down the entire hull with 1000 grit paper to prepare the hull for painting. 144750036 Pic 193 - Engineering Hull One thing I wanted to make sure I put in these models are the small lighting effects that are seen in the travelpod docking ports. To do this I drilled out the doors, then thinned out the inside resin by sanding it down very carefully. There are 5 ports on each model. 144750034 Pic 194 - Travel Pod Dock Ports. This is my master for casting the the dock port doors. They seem a little deep, but for this detail it's always good to have a little extra then file or sand everything down a bit to make the perfect fit. The pieces will be cast in clear resin for the lighting effects. 144750038 Pic 195 - Bridge Lighting Effects Yes, that is the 5th docking port. Here I'm marking where the flood lighting will go and then these, the docking port and the center strobe dome above the docking port will all be drilled out. 144750045 Pic 196 - Bridge Lighting Effects To thin out the resin on the rear of this piece I used the disc grinder. I also had to thin out the top where the strobe will go. Then all of the holes are drilled out. 144750044 Pic 197 - Bridge Lighting Effects Here's what all of the holes look like all drilled out. These are now ready for there re-cast lighting effect parts. 144750039 Pic - 198 Resin Casting Othere pieces. Some of these parts are being recast in clear resin to allow lighting effects to show through them without having to drill holes in them for lighting. 144750026 Pic 199 - Resin Casting For Airlock If you look back at Pics 100 - 101 this is what the resin casting of the airlocks looks like when finished. These are now just one piece. They are now ready for opaqueing and painting. 144750031 Pic 200 - Resin Casting For Torp Tubes These are the torpedo launcher tubes that are located on the lower dorsal. These will be opaqued except where the torpedo launch effects will go. 144750032 Pic 201 - Resin Casting For Travel Pods I wanted to have a few travel pods both in the Enterprise hanger and also floating around the drydock that had some lighting effects in them. These pods are cast in clear resin. 144750033 Pic 202 - Lighting the Travel Pods For some of the Pods a hole will be drilled into the back end and an LED will be put into the hole. The Pod will then be painted and decaled. 144750030 Pic 203 - Main Deflector If you look at pics 23 -26 you'll see I started on the main deflector and the housing. At first I was going to drill out all of the holes for the lights, but I didn't like the way the holes turnes out and 2 of the dish pieces i recieved were cast in a clear blue resin. I decided to re cast these to pieces as one to reduce light leaks and drill holes. 144750027 Pic 204 - Main Deflector This piece is actually a reject, but I wanted to try a techinque that was used in ST:III TSFS on the Space dock Model. First the model was cast in clear plastic or fiberglass then painted over and then the windows were carefully scratched off to reveal the lights or window. So far I've tried this and it works just great. I'll have test pics later on. 144750042 Pic 205 - Strobe Domes. These are clear castings of the small domes that cover the flashing strobes on the engines and other lights on the ship. They are on the sticky side of the painters tape 1 to help me not lose any of them and 2 so they can be opaqued. That's all for this update. See you in 2012. 144750043